Virpazar

Finding Virpazar can be a challenge. One reaches it by turning off the highway, crossing a railway track, and walking over an old stone bridge. It’s little more than a bustling, chaotic, charming outdoor market/settlement on the banks of Lake Skadar.Restaurants, stalls selling trinkets and T-shirts, and kiosks selling tickets for a variety of Lake tours stand in the shade of an umbrella of trees.I went online several weeks ahead of our visit and purchased tickets for a three-hour tour with a family-owned company – ‘Milica Boat Ride.’ Milica leads the tours, and a young boatman who grew up exploring the lake drives the boat.

All of the boat company’s pine-wood boats that glow in the sunshine are made by Milica’s father, who has been building boats and guiding tours as long as Milica can remember. Her knowledge of Lake Skadar’s history (which borders Albania), the birds, fish, flowers, water lilies, and grasses is impressive.

The boat passes the legendary Lesendro Fortress, also known as ‘The Key to Skadar Lake,’ due to its strategic position near Vranjina, a narrow passage that let whoever controlled it dictate movement on the lake.While the earliest fortification on the island dates to the early 18th century, what stands today is a fortress built in the early 19th century by Montenegro’s prince and poet, Peter Petrovic – Njegoš. The prince created a militarily fortified island to protect the area against Ottoman invasions. Unfortunately, in 1843 Ottoman/Turkish forces captured the island. Thirty-five years later, following the Montenegro-Ottoman war, it was returned to Montenegro.

In the late afternoon, when the heat had subsided, our boat glided along narrow lanes of trees, past nature’s sculptured branches and a little bridge named ‘Little Venice’. We passed fields of floating water-lilies and stopped at a little beach for a memorable swim in the lake.

Not wanting our soothing, peaceful tour to end, we boarded the café boat at the dock for a late-afternoon cappuccino and cake.

Onwards to the guesthouse/winery where we were spending the night. Finding the tiny road, barely big enough for a horse and cart, that snakes up the mountain was a challenge. The ‘Studio and Winery Kalimut‘ is a little treasure. Owned and run by three generations, with a fourth generation of young children in the lineup, it consists of their vineyards, winery, family home, and three modern guest studios designed to maximize the views while creating interior designs that enhance its beauty.
Our hosts welcomed us with a plate of dried fruit, olives, and cheeses, accompanied by glasses of their winery’s sherry. We savored this unexpected treat on our patio overlooking the vineyards aglow in the late-afternoon sunshine.

Beneath their home, the large garage has been transformed into a welcoming wine cellar, filled with traditional wooden oak barrels. At its center, a long dining table is set for breakfast and dinner. The owner is a gracious hostess, a gourmet cook, and a knowledgeable wine connoisseur who adds a special touch to every meal.