Tbilisi – Part Two
From the riverfront, turn onto Baratashvili Street or leave the Old Town by walking past the whimsical Rezo Gabriadze Clock Tower and continuing straight along Shavteli Street toward the elegant, five-star Hotel Ambassadori, where a row of life-size bronze statues portray beloved characters from Georgian life and folklore. The janitor Meezove, wearing a hat and carrying his tool bag; the water carrier; the street musician; and everyday townsfolk. It’s a popular spot for both locals and tourists to pose for photos with this enchanting group of Georgian gentlemen.
Shavteli Street leads to Baratashvili Street. Turn left, and as you start your slightly uphill walk, you’ll see the reconstructed ancient walls and an archway leading from the Old Town into a garden where a statue pays tribute to Ioane Petritsi, a medieval Georgian philosopher who combined Greek philosophy with Christianity.
A few minutes later, you’ll come across the striking juxtaposition of an old circular building with wooden balconies atop a medieval city wall and an ultra-modern glass building in the background. The statue in front of the preserved building honors the renowned architect Shota Kavlasvili (1926-1995), who for many years was known as the Chief Architect of Tbilisi, exemplifying the preservation and restoration of Old Tbilisi while introducing modern architecture, as seen in the 1991 Sheraton Metekhi Palace Hotel.
The combination of revived and reconstructed ancient architecture with ultra-modern architecture is just one of the many features that make Tbilisi so beguiling.
Continue to the next corner, where the pavement curves gently to the left, and you’ll discover another entrance into the Old Town that takes you into a charming, lived-in district that many visitors overlook.
On Vertskhli Street, stop at one of the atmospheric cafés/restaurants, each with its own distinctive character.
Muse – at 52 Vertskhli Street. This café-restaurant has a funky, bohemian atmosphere, where vintage furnishings, eclectic décor, antique lamps, and an old piano are tucked beneath a leafy canopy of trees. Whether you stop for morning coffee, lunch, an afternoon snack, or dinner, it’s a great place to take a break and soak up the ambiance. After dark, sparkling lights twinkle through the branches; live music may fill the air, and the courtyard takes on a magical atmosphere.
Nilo – at 35 Vertskhli Street – is accessed via a flight of steps around the corner of the building. More than just a café, bar, and restaurant, it is a lively cultural gathering place where locals and visitors come together for art exhibitions, live jazz, singers, comedy, and film screenings, followed by discussions with the filmmakers. It’s open daily from 10.00 am to 11.00 pm and until midnight on Saturdays.
Matassé 1822 – at 40 Vertskhli Street. This tiny, irresistible, cozy, charming coffee and patisserie (pastry shop) is sublime. A real gem. Ideal for having a scrumptious pastry and a cappuccino before continuing on your walk to Freedom Square.
As you continue your walk up Baratashvili Street, look out for a flight of steps leading underground. There you’ll find stores selling everything from cosmetics and fruit to jewelry and clothing. Prices are very reasonable, and it’s a great little web of lanes to explore and take shelter in on a rainy day.
Take the underground exit that leads to the side of the street, where the Soviet-era mural overlooks the passing crowds. From there, step into the tranquil oasis of Orbeliani Park, where bronze dancers join hands in an eternal ring, their graceful forms shimmering beneath the fountains.
On the opposite side of the park, you’ll come across the Vekua Street Flower Market. If you love flowers and potted plants, don’t miss this exquisite display of a huge variety of flowers in their prime. The market is open every day of the week. (Some stalls are open 24 hours.)
Continue on your uphill walk to Freedom Square where a one-hundred fifteen-foot-tall granite column supports the gold-leaf statue of Saint George slaying a dragon. The monument, unveiled in 2006, celebrates Georgia’s independence and replaces the Soviet-era monument of Vladimir Lenin.
Tree-lined lanes surround the Square. Some lead into the Old Town; others lead into the city’s more modern part. Galleria Tbilisi on Shota Rustaveli Avenue is a modern, vibrant shopping mall.
** Tip: If you need a restroom, the mall has well-maintained facilities, but they come with a rather unique access system. The storekeepers will happily point you toward the restrooms and tell you that you need a card to enter. But when you ask where to buy the card, the answer is invariably, “I don’t know.”
After my third back-and-forth walk, I finally saw a woman in the hallway scanning a credit card. I followed her lead. A barrier lifted, revealing a corridor to the restrooms that you can’t see until you’ve gained access.
And voila – the toilets!