Albania
Tirana, Albania’s capital, is the jumping-off point for a road trip to the Albanian Riviera. First stop – a detour to Belsh, a lakeside town fifteen kilometers from Tirana in the heart of the country. Albanians begin their day with a good cup of coffee. Cafés fill with people chatting with friends over coffee before heading off to work and their daily routines.
In Belsh, we sat at an outdoor café, with a view of the sparkling lake, flower boxes filled with vibrant pink and red petunias, and a sculpture of Sami Frasheri – a writer, poet, and linguist who contributed to the creation of the modern Turkish language.
Berat is known as the hottest town in Albania; nevertheless, its charm and location on the banks of the Osum River, which runs through the city, make it well worth a visit. Berat is also known as ‘The City of a Thousand Windows.’ Its white Ottoman-era houses climb the hillside, creating a panorama of endless rows of windows. A walk along the maze of ancient cobbled lanes offers a taste of bygone years.
Berat Castle – Albania has cared for and preserved its ancient history. The castle, whose origin harks back to the 4th century BC, was rebuilt in the 13th century. Its vibrant archaeological historic quarter remains inhabited today. Vendors display clothing and carpets by attaching them to the stone walls, red poppies thrive in the spring sunshine, restaurants offer traditional, delectable Albanian cooking, and ancient cannons rest among the walls and flowers.
The Vjosa River winds from Greece through Albania’s mountain valley to the Adriatic Sea. After a rainfall, its deep blue waters turn light gray for several days, carrying sediment downstream. In late May, the valley is carpeted in lush greenery and splashed with color: yellow Spanish broom, white rosemary shrubs, purple wildflowers, and brilliant red poppies. Below the hills, farm fields create patterns, their varied shapes, colors, and sizes adding an artistic dimension to the landscape.
Gjirokastër – The road to Gjirokastër winds uphill to the New City, where one can find several small hotels for an overnight stay. A short uphill drive the next morning leads to the enchanting, not-to-be-missed Old Town, with its steep cobbled stone streets, old stone buildings, a daily market offering everything from ceramics to carpets, handmade wooden jewelry, restaurants, and an animated vibe.
Gjirokastër Castle
From the Old Town, the road zig-zags uphill to Gjirokastër Castle. Plan to spend at least an hour stepping back in time as you explore this incredibly well-preserved castle.
Blue Eye (Syri I Kalter)
Freshwater Spring. A colorful toy train takes visitors through the forest to a little gem of nature – a turquoise spring.
Ksamil is known as the ‘Maldives of Albania’ because of its beautiful beaches, warm waters, and some marine life – though not as plentiful or colorful as tropical reefs.It’s a relatively new town, established in 1966. Early June and mid-September are good months to visit, before and after the crowded summer season.
Butrint Archaeological National Park is a highlight of a road trip in Albania. What makes it so unique is not only its history but its location. It rests in a forest beside Lake Butrint and the Vivari Channel.Its history stretches back thousands of years. It became a Greek settlement around the 7th century BC. The Romans occupied it from the 2nd century BC and made it a Roman colony. Then came the Byzantine Period, the Venetians, and the Ottomans, each civilization leaving its mark on the city’s fortifications, monuments, and defensive walls. So when you wander through the park, you are walking through different civilizations: Greek, Roman, Byzantine/Christian, Venetian, and Ottoman.
Allow two to three hours, or more.
Sarande: A beautiful beach town and wonderful place to relax, swim, and snorkel, and enjoy the freshest sea bass and mussels for which it is famous. The little town comes to life at night when visitors stroll the main street and dine at the outdoor restaurants.
Ponto Palermo is a unique castle that stands on a peninsula projecting into Porto Palermo Bay, connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. It was built by Ali Pasha, an Albanian-born Ottoman ruler who controlled much of Southern Albania. He built and strengthened several castles and fortifications to protect his territory and expand his power. Ali Pasha was one of the region’s most influential figures. He was killed by Ottoman forces in 1822.
Upper Qeparo – the original hillside settlement overlooking the Ionian Sea- has a history stretching back to antiquity and is traditionally described as an Iron Age village.For centuries, Greek was widely spoken in the region. In 1957, a new coastal road caused residents to leave the hillside and settle closer to the sea, where access to water and economic opportunities were better.Today it is occupied by a small number of residents who have restored homes and brought some life back to this historic village.
Himare – An enchanting seaside town. The turquoise blue sea is lined with a promenade where an endless choice of restaurants beckons one to linger and enjoy fresh seafood. Their prawns and mussels are unbeatable. Two days in Himare give one time to explore the beaches and sea caves.
Dhërmi: A stunning resort area ideal for relaxing on the beach and enjoying swimming in the calm, warm, crystal-clear ocean.
Vlorë: A drive up the mountain around hairpin bends leads to a viewpoint with panoramic views of the expansive bay and coastal waterfront of Vlorë and Sazan Island, which rests out at sea where the Adriatic Sea meets the Ionian Sea. During the communist era, the island was a fortified military base. Today, it is uninhabited, and its peaceful natural beauty contrasts dramatically with its Cold War past, attracting organized tours from Vlorë.
