TAKAMATSU
Takamatsu is rarely mentioned on most tour companies’ itineraries, which makes it a gem to be enjoyed in the off-season. In the spring and fall, it becomes a mecca for locals who flock to immerse themselves in the unrivaled beauty of the outdoors, bursting with color.
The Ritsurin Gardens, dating back to 1745, are said to be among the most extensive and beautiful Japanese gardens.
Plan on spending several hours strolling through the Edo Period daimyo (feudal lord) gardens, populated with hillocks, ponds, uniquely designed bridges, and forested areas.
The well-marked South Route is exquisite. Ponds are filled with water lilies, decorative stone slabs, sculpted bushes and trees, and flower boxes with blooming colors.
Traditional Wasen boats ferrying visitors glide soundlessly across the emerald green waters.
Shimmering, colored, koi fish that look as though they were hand-painted in elaborate patterns, congregate at the edges of ponds, waiting to be fed.
Little ancient tea houses and ice cream stands are camouflaged by bright green foliage.
Make a reservation at the Hanazono-tei teahouse. If you visit between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m., you’ll enjoy the views and a traditional breakfast of hot porridge.
If you are an early riser, arrive at opening time, 7 a.m., and watch the mist rise over the water. It is reported to be an unforgettable experience.
(Note: The popular Kikugetsutei teahouse also requires reservations and charges a fee to enter the teahouse. It too, has beautiful views of the gardens and the Nanko Pond.)
Shikoku Mura Village and Yoshima-ji Temple
We caught the morning train from Takamatsu to Shikoku Mura. Outside the tiny station, we boarded a shuttle bus that zig-zags to the top of the mountain’s southern ridge, where panoramic views of the islands and the city open like a fan.
A short uphill walk leads to the impressive Yashima-ji shrine, which receives a constant flow of worshippers.
(Note: Check the shuttle’s schedule. The steep, narrow, winding road has no sidewalks, so you’d share it with cars if you walked down to Shikoku Mura village.)
We took the shuttle down to Shikoku Mura village, an outdoor museum covering fifty thousand square meters on which thirty-three structures, built between the Edo and Taisho eras, were relocated from various regions of Shikoku Island. The houses are all original folk houses where people once lived and produced sugar, rice, and paper.
Exploration of this magical village in the forest begins with crossing a swaying bridge made of wooden slats knotted together with vines from fallen trees.
The first stop is the Kabuki theater, which dates back to the Edo period and was originally located in a farming village. It is still used for occasional performances. Kabuki is a Japanese dance and drama genre known for its elaborate costumes, dance movements, and makeup.
It’s a gradual uphill climb to the peak along paths that meander across flat stones, creating pathways across ponds where massive fountains blend in with nature. In the midst of the forest stands the sculptural Somegati waterfall made from stones dating back to the Meiji and Taisho periods. The only sounds are those of nature. Birds chirping and the bubbling and gurgling of water.
Along the route, one can wander through a variety of houses, from elegant, traditional houses to those that housed gigantic kozo vats used to steam the raw materials for producing washi paper.
Sugar cane presses housed in circular thatched structures were operated by two seated family members, one on either side of the millstone, and a cow tethered to the press walking around and around in circles.
I recommend ending your visit relaxing for a while in the charming café just beyond the exit. It occupies a historical, carpeted, elegant mansion and serves coffee, tea, iced fruit drinks, sandwiches, and cakes.
Takamatsu city center sparkles at night. Restaurants fill up but close relatively early compared to major cities like Tokyo and Kyoto. Try the soft, fluffy, steamed Bao buns. A Japanese specialty, which is said to have originated in China.
Naoshima Island
We did not budget enough time for Naoshima Island. It was recommended several times during our visit to Takamatsu.
A ferry takes approximately thirty-five to forty minutes from Takamatsu port to the island, famous for its Art House Project and scenic setting. The island boasts numerous galleries, outdoor sculptures, and the Chichu Art Museum on a hilltop with an underground gallery. (Reservations are required.)
It seems that to enjoy all that the island has to offer, one should plan to spend two nights and hire bicycles to get around.