Dimitsana and Stemnitsa

Dimitsana and Stemnitsa are two small atmospheric, historic villages in the mountains of the Peloponnese region.
Dimitsana has one tiny, lively main street that zig-zags around sharp bends. The village cascades down the mountain. A local had recommended that we visit his favorite restaurant high up in the mountains for its good food and stunning views.

It was an insane nightmarish drive, along the equivalent of a tiny donkey track that wound around Z-shaped bends. There was no option of making a U-turn and turning back. When we finally reached Zerzova Restaurant, perched on a mountaintop, it seemed abandoned. I knocked on the front door. No response.
As we were about to drive away, a young man decked out in chef’s apron opened the front door. Yes, they were open for lunch, but it was only 2:15 pm! Lesson learned:  in Greece, they go to bed in the early hours of the morning, sleep till 2:00 pm, and eat at around 3:00 pm. We had inconsiderately arrived an hour too early! The home-cooked food was delectable, and by 3:30 pm, there was not an empty table to be had.
The panoramic view of Dimitsana and Stemnitsa against a backdrop of cloudless blue skies lived up to its description.

Panoramic view of Dimitsana

Panoramic view of Stemnitsa.

Stemnitsa is a 15-minute drive from Dimitsana along another serpentine road. In summer, Athenians flock to their vacation homes in Stemnitsa to escape the city’s extreme heat. The village’s permanent population is said to consist of only 80 people.

This picturesque village has irresistible charm and an interesting history.
At its center is the village square surrounded by coffee shops, restaurants, a tiny supermarket, a bakery that turns out irresistible Greek pastries, and Saint Georgios Church, adorned from floor to ceiling with frescoes, marble floors, and teardrop, shimmering chandeliers.

Stemnitsa is known for its collection of hiking trails: the Menalon hiking trails, the Lousios Gorge, and the Prayers’ Gorge. The Main Menalon Trail leads one through beautiful scenery and various villages. It’s considered to be a moderately difficult trail.

A narrow, steep, cobbled lane leads from the village center to a slender memorial monument overlooking the surrounding landscape. The monument honors the fallen heroes who fought in Greece’s War of Independence from the Turks.

On the way up to the memorial, a tiny school with a plaque at its entrance states: “Place of Greek Education Stemnitsa 1628-1828. In this place, friends and fighters, including the prime minister, Alex Koundouros, were educated in 1821.”
The school is said to have been used as a camouflage for the Greek soldiers during their struggle for independence.

A stone structure just beyond the school, with a façade of six arches, is the Panayia Baphero Church. Some say it was also used as a shelter during the War of Independence.

Stemnitsa has a long history of goldsmiths and silversmiths creating handcrafted, artfully designed jewelry, ornaments, and candlesticks. Today, the tradition continues thanks to the Silver and Gold Smithery School of Stemnitsa, where students come from all over Greece and abroad to learn the art of creating silver and gold jewelry.