Sighnaghi

It’s a two- to two–and–a–half–hour drive from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi. We stopped on the way to visit a Monastic complex where St. George’s Cathedral commands sweeping views of the Alazani Valley. A smaller church honoring Saint Nino – who is said to have brought Christianity to Georgia – nestles among the trees above her burial place.

The site is famous not only for the churches, but for the gardens that surround them and the spectacular views of the Alazani Valley and the Caucasus Mountains.

Onwards to the Kakheti countryside, renowned for its landscape of vines, wines, and villages. Georgia is one of the world’s oldest continuous winemaking countries. Archaeological sites confirm that Georgians were winemakers thousands of years ago. They have preserved the ancient, traditional winemaking method known as ‘qvevri,’ which involves fermenting grapes in large clay vessels buried underground.

Our terrific driver, who turned out to be as much a guide as a driver, stopped at the roadside lined with little food stands selling freshly baked bread, large cylindrical wheels of cheese, wine and churchkela. Churchkela is a long, pointed, sweet fruit stick made of walnuts threaded onto a string, and grape juice boiled down and thickened with flour into a pudding-like mixture called tatara. The string of nuts is dipped several times into the mixture until it’s covered in a thick, shiny coating. Finally, it’s hung up to dry for several weeks. The finished product resembles a long candle. It is said to be highly nutritious and can last a year if hung in a dry place. During the war with Russia, Georgian soldiers favored it for its long-lasting freshness and nutritional value.

As we drove into Sighnaghi, it was love at first sight. Two restaurants greeted us, each with spacious, shaded outdoor patios and sweeping views that stretched to the horizon. Who could resist the magnetic pull of lunch beneath a canopy, with such a magnificent view, a tasty meal, and a glass of wine in hand?
The historic center of Sighnaghi is home to several wineries where one can visit the traditional underground, egg-shaped, clay “qvevris”.

From the restaurant, it’s an uphill walk to the town center, passing through an ancient stone archway and along a cobbled street lined with vendors selling an array of colorful, patterned shawls, scarves, tablecloths and handbags. The vibrant textiles stand out against a backdrop of stone walls topped with distinctive red-tiled roofs, which are visible from miles away.

The stone fortress walls that surround the town stretch for approximately four kilometers! Built in the 18th century at the order of King Erekle, the walls have become a popular walking route, attracting visitors and locals alike. Originally, the walls included approximately twenty-five watchtowers and six arched gateways.

The town center offers a variety of stores, from coffee shops and restaurants to small supermarkets, clothing stores, and bakeries, as well as several hotels and inviting parks.
The Statue of Solomon Dodashvili – a Georgian philosopher and journalist stands in April 9 Park, shaded by mature trees. (April 9 refers to a tragic event in Georgian history when Georgians were killed for demonstrating against Soviet rule.)

Just steps away from the statue is a memorial carved into the brick wall, with bas-reliefs depicting Georgian soldiers on foot and on horseback engaged in battle during World War II. Adjacent to it is a wall bearing a long list of Georgian soldiers who gave their lives for their country.

On a lighter note, if you visit Sighnaghi – don’t miss the town’s museum. Its archaeological collection brings the history of Kakheti to life with artifacts found during excavations that date from the Stone Age through the Bronze and Iron Ages and into the Medieval period – evidence of the many populations who inhabited the region thousands of years ago.
The museum’s upper floor displays the art of Niko Pirosmani, a famous Georgian artist from Kakheti.

This tiny, gold sculpture was uncovered by archaeologists…

*If you’d like to rest awhile and take in the charm of the town center, you’ll find a cozy indoor/outdoor coffee shop, a few minutes’ walk from April 9 Park, on an elevated hillock under the trees.

We spent three nights in Sighnaghi in a boutique hotel perched on a hilltop with panoramic views of the village, the ancient stone watchtowers, fortress walls, and the snow-capped Caucasus Mountains.

Our bedroom had floor-to-ceiling windows and opened onto a patio where we began each day with a home-cooked breakfast while gazing out at the ancient town, basking in bright sunshine or draped in a veil of fine mist.
*(It’s quite a long, steep walk to and from the town center. Ask the hotel staff to call a taxi should you choose a hotel in the hills.)

Sighnaghi’s nickname is ‘City of Love’. It acquired this romantic title because it became famous as a place where couples could register their marriages at any time of the day or night, thanks to its twenty-four-hour registry office.
The nickname fits the town perfectly, with its cobblestone streets, charming houses crowned with red-tiled roofs, wonderful wines, and mesmerizing views.