Kyoto – Japan

Kyoto is known for its abundance of temples, shrines, and the Imperial Palace, which harks back to the Heian period. In 1855, the palace was rebuilt after severe damage from fires on several occasions. In 1868, the imperial family relocated to Tokyo, which became the new capital of Japan. The palace and gardens are now open to the public all year round, and admission is free.

We chose a hotel close to Sanjo Dori, the city’s vibrant commercial boulevard, where buses run frequently, and several metro underground stations are easily accessible. The boulevard is lined with all the major brand-name stores and endless eateries. Although the buildings are rather dowdy, the constant stream of shoppers creates a magnetic atmosphere. Walking west to east, one side of the street houses the moderately priced stores – Zara, Intimissimi, H&M, etc. while the opposite side is home to Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Breitling Watches, etc., and a massive Daimaru Department Store.

Sanjo Dori leads to the Sanjo Ohashi Bridge, which spans the Kamogawa River and flows north to south through the heart of Kyoto. In the spring, the riverbanks are adorned with the delicate pink petals of cherry blossoms.

The entrance to the iconic Pontocho-Dori neighborhood is situated several steps before reaching the bridge. The narrow alley is flanked on both sides by traditional two-storied, wooden buildings, each about (5.5m – 18ft) wide, occupied by intimate, atmospheric restaurants and miniature stores, with living quarters at the back. Many of the restaurants have dining terraces overlooking the river. While the alley is quiet during the day, it sparkles with lights at night. Geisha girls stroll the narrow street providing a living example of Japan’s rich cultural heritage, and Japanese lanterns cast a subtle glow of light. The contrasts of wood and bamboo lit up by golden and red lanterns are magical.

The elegant Tohka Sai Kan building stands opposite the entrance to Pontocho-Dori. Its ornate, sculpted entrance faces Sanjo Street, while the outdoor restaurant provides excellent views of the river and Gion district. In 1924, the building became well-known for having the first elevator in Japan.

From the Tohka Sai Kan building, continue along Shijo-Dori to Hanamikoji Street, which runs north to south in the Gion district. The street is famous for its traditional wooden houses and tea houses, dating back to the Edo period when it was developed as an entertainment district. Visit at night when it’s at its liveliest, and the Geisha add to the atmosphere of stepping back in time to another world. Note:  If you wish to take photos of the Geisha, ask them for permission or take your pictures from a distance without a flash.

The Yasaka Shrine stands at the eastern end of Shijo Dori (street) and includes several buildings: a main hall, a stage, and a gate.

Kyoto’s most magical neighborhood is in the Gion, where the Shirakawa Canal meets the Kamogawa River. The easiest way to find it is by turning right immediately before crossing the bridge when walking from Yasaka Shrine from east to west. Continue walking a few blocks, and you can’t miss it on your right, where trees lean towards the canal on one side, and on the other, original wooden and bamboo houses sparkle with lights emanating from clubs, restaurants, and bars.

Daimaru Department Store on Shijo Dori – has a hidden gem in its basement. It’s like discovering an immense Ali-Baba cave of sensational baked goods that are works of art, fresh fruit and veggies, and a never-ending smorgasbord of food stalls. Want the best meal in Kyoto? Go to the basement of the Daimaru Department Store. It boggles the mind and excites the taste buds!

Also, off Shijo Dori is an entrance to the Nishiki Market. The locals may tell you that it’s too crowded, which is true, but the food, the variety of stalls, and the vibe are not to be missed.

The Bamboo Forest – To experience the forest at its best, I recommend getting there early, between 6:30 a.m. – 7:30 a.m. Take the metro and then change trains to a small local train. Getting a taxi to the forest from the station is best to avoid wasting time getting there. When you exit the station, ask a local to direct you to the taxi stand on the opposite side of the circle. The forest’s tranquility and fragrant morning air enhance the experience of standing below a halo of soaring bamboo trees and visiting the shrines that snuggle between the foliage. By 10:00 a.m., hordes of tourists and locals clog the paths, and the peaceful experience evaporates. NOTE: Some major shrines are not open in the early morning hours.

A shrine in the bamboo forest.

A woman sweeps a shrine in the bamboo forest.

The main street outside the entrance is lined with cafés, coffee shops, bakeries, and a variety of charming stores. Consider having breakfast/brunch at one of the cafés, then walk across the bridge—where boats take visitors up and down the river—and continue to the station. It’s a lovely walk.

On our last night in Kyoto, we had planned to visit the Fushimi Inari Shrine with its famous orange torii gates all lit up and the lights of Kyoto shimmering below. Our plans were wiped out by an unexpected storm.
Lesson learned: don’t leave what is supposed to be the best experience for last.

***The photos of the Fushimi Inari Shrine were taken by a friend who visited Kyoto a month before my visit.