Two Days in Marseille
Day One – We headed straight for the Le Vieux Port (The Old Port), where thousands of boats anchor, the wide boardwalk winds around the Port, restaurants look towards the picture-perfect views, and busy boulevards surround the area, making it the dynamic core of Marseille.
The #60 bus departs every ten minutes from the Port for Notre-Dame de la Garde, which stands like a beacon high up on a hill, commanding sensational 360-degree views of Marseille, the islands, and the deep blue sea.
We made a brief visit to the peaceful, spiritual sacristy, then to the Basilica, where the ceilings are covered in gold, the walls display photos and paintings of boats at sea, and small boats, most likely made of wood, dangle on thin ropes attached to the ceiling. These are made by sailors and others who were saved from maritime disasters. Known as ‘ex-votos’, they represent the deep connection that the residents of Marseille have with the sea and the Virgin Mary.
*The restaurant on the third floor has mixed reviews. We chose to return to the Port and tried a small restaurant, Bobolivo, at 29 Rue Caisserie, which was recommended to us by a local Marseillaise. It’s a charming little restaurant owned by two brothers who run the show. *Also recommended for the best bouillabaisse in Marseille are Chez Michel and Le Mirama.
Most of the main boulevards are within a short walking distance from the Port. La Canebière, named after the hemp fields that once upon a time flourished in the area, is a hotchpotch of stores, cafes, and bakeries. Unfortunately, it has seen better days. The renowned French Galeries Lafayette department store is situated in the Centre Bourse shopping mall, near La Canebière Boulevard.
Rue Paradis is a high-end shopping street featuring designer names that leads off from the Vieux Port (Old Port) from Place du Général de Gaulle.
Rue Saint Férreol – also known as ‘St Fe’-is a bustling pedestrian shopping street where brand stores such as H&M and Zara have a presence.
The Noailles District is approximately a one-kilometer walk from the Vieux Port. It’s a hub for fresh produce, freshly baked patisserie, spices, herbs, and home goods.
Day Two – We went in search of the Panier District. Google Maps got pretty lost, but with the help of locals, we finally found ourselves in a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets lined by apartments on the upper floors, unique stores and eateries on street level, and walls coated with street art and graffiti.
Given that it was a weekday in late November, the majority of the tiny stores were shut for the upcoming winter. Those that were open gave us a taste of the variety of talent, the charm, and warmth of the artisans of Panier: A young woman who dives for coral and makes one-of-a-kind items of coral jewelry; another who grows lavender and manufactures a wide variety of lavender products; and a creative artisan who crafts high-quality chef’s knives to order.
In the summer months, the neighborhood pulses with energy. It’s said to be akin to an ongoing party.
From the Panier District to the Cathédrale La Major, also known as Basilique Sainte Marie Majeure, is a stark juxtaposition. Built in the 19th century, the Basilica is grand and majestic. It towers over the square. Its domes, the elegant façade, and its size are comparable to St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. It faces the Port, providing a regal welcome to those who arrive in Marseille by sea.
Its interior is elegant in its simplicity. Rose and oatmeal-colored marble columns and arches give it an aura of peace. The voice of the priest in song and prayer reverberates through the entire Basilica.
From the Cathédrale La Major, one can see the ultra-modern glass MuCem with panels and a roof that mimics the texture of ocean coral. MuCem stands for the Museum of Civilization of Europe and the Mediterranean.
Based on the reviews, I would say skip the museum but continue walking to the Fort, where the views of Marseille are a living, landscape painting.
Our next stop for the day was a leisurely late lunch on the boardwalk of the Old Port in a restaurant with a picture-perfect view.
Lastly, in the waning sunshine of the late afternoon and crisp November air, we walked off the calories with a stroll along the boardwalk that winds around the marina.
Footnote: The MUCEM rooftop is said to have magnificent views.