sights uncovered
Travel with Tessa

Šibinek

Šibenik, pronounced ‘Shibenik’, is the oldest Croatian city on the Adriatic coast. It is surrounded by the Šibinek archipelago, consisting of hundreds of islands and islets.
The Old Town is a web of medieval, well-preserved lanes dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries.

We stayed at the Šibinek Palace. While it is not palatial in size, it consists of three units of one-of-a-kind suites that have been exquisitely and thoughtfully restored to intertwine
the original old white-tone walls with modern flooring, glass shower doors encased in black metal, stone niches with lamp lights, a built-in hidden sofa, a small refrigerator, a coffee machine, and an electric kettle. Every inch of space is brilliantly used and camouflaged to avoid clutter.
The hotel owner met us in the town parking lot. To find this little gem on our own would have been an endless treasure hunt.

As luck would have it, his daughter was on her way to prepare for a friend’s wedding, which was to take place at the iconic St. James Cathedral. She invited us to attend the ceremony for a ‘true Croatian experience.’ While the church ceremony was spiritual and interesting, the celebrations that followed were indeed a unique Croatian experience.

As the bride and groom exited the Cathedral, a band struck up. The guests formed a circle around the newlyweds, and the men sang and danced while hoisting flags and red torches, which symbolize driving away evil spirits. The circle formation of the dance represents unity and the continuation of life.
The celebrations didn’t end there. They continued in a procession along the narrow medieval lanes, glasses of champagne in hand, singing and dancing all the way to the party venue.
These are the unique experiences that make travel so addictive.

In the plaza next to St. James Cathedral, a statue by the renowned Croatian sculptor Meštrović pays tribute to the Venetian architect Giorgio de Sebenico, also known as Juraj Dalmatinac, for his work on the Cathedral of St. James.

Around the corner from the Cathedral stands the impressive Renaissance-style 16th-century building, now Šibinek’s Town Hall.

The maze of lanes forces one to enjoy exploring and getting lost. It’s akin to a treasure hunt. I fell in love with the statue of ‘The Boy with the Umbrella,’ which was sculpted in 2020 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the International Children’s Festival. There is something so adorable about him and the way he holds the giant umbrella.

We came across unique outdoor sculptures and intimate outdoor restaurants where we enjoyed delicious meals in rustic, charming surroundings.

Around every corner, there seemed to be a surprise. The  Cave of Our Lady of Lourdes is a grotto built in the 1920s where visitors pray and light candles. Beside it stands St. Lawrence Church. It’s not adorned with extravagant gold and glitter, but rather with a beautiful painted ceiling and wall frescoes.
[Address: 2200 Stari grad]

Steps away from the church, you’ll find a steep staircase leading to a peaceful gem: the Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St. Lawrence. The tastefully landscaped garden was restored in 2007 after a century of total neglect. The design follows the traditional layout of a medieval garden, with a cross path, a well at its center, and all surrounded by medicinal herbs. It’s a perfect spot to rest awhile and enjoy a cup of coffee and a pastry.

In Stari Grad (the Old Town), you’ll find streets lined with small stores selling one-of-a-kind jewelry, art, and clothing. Don’t miss the little jewelry store: Grubic Design, at U.I. don Krste Stosica 4, 22000. It’s hard to leave without purchasing one of their unique pieces of jewelry.

A little church worth popping into is the Church of the Assumption, also known as the Church of the Mother of God. It has a rich interior, with walls covered in frescoes and a massive, ornate golden chandelier that sparkles in the beams of light filtering through the upper windows. It’s easy to miss because of its location on a busy cobbled lane.
[Address:  Zagrebačta ul,22000 Šibinek]

A walk along the waterfront of the town is a must. It’s lined with restaurants and bars, set against a backdrop of ancient stone-red-roofed buildings, and offers views of the surrounding islands and the crystal-clear blue sea.

Walk to the end of the waterfront path, and you’ll arrive at Banj Beach, a beach covered in sand and small pebbles. It has a cafe and bar, and the best views of the town, and St. Michael’s Fortress overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

We were told by a local that Martinska and Jadrija are the two most beautiful beaches. They are both reachable by car and by boat service from the waterfront in Šibinek.

Jadrija has colorful, wooden cabin changing rooms and a pine forest.

Martinska is on a peninsula opposite the old town of Šibinek. It has the best views of Old Town Šibinek and has pine trees that provide shade.

In high season, it’s best to go by boat. Parking can be difficult.

Our friend suggested going on weekdays, as weekends are crowded with locals.