Opatija

From the highway, one descends via serpentine bends to Opatija.  At first glance, it’s apparent that this is the St. Tropez of Croatia – high fashion, luxurious, and expensive.  The shoreline is lined by marinas where pleasure boats bob in the ocean, ‘beaches’ made of natural stones or concrete slabs, and hotels and restaurants that offer padded, outdoor, comfy chaises and umbrellas at a price!  Steel stepladders descend into the clear, calm, warm waters.

We checked into the Amadria Park Hotel Sveti Jakov, which faces manicured gardens that lead down to the sea.  The hotel has an elegant, old-world charm, the staff are warm and helpful, and it’s part of a chain that includes the next-door hotel, which offers an indoor-outdoor spa and swimming pool accessible to all guests.

Amadria Park Hotel Sveti Jakov.

Hotel with spa and swimming pool accesible to all guests of Amadria hotel.

Ulica Marsàla Tita runs behind the Amadria Park Hotel.  It’s lined with hotels, boutiques, and restaurants, housed in buildings that blend Neo-Victorian, Neo-Baroque, and Art Nouveau architectural styles, with facades adorned by ornate sculptures, balconies, and pillars.  (Opatija was a popular resort for the Austro-Hungarian elite in the 19^th and early 20^th centuries.)

One of our favorite stores was UDRUGA LJUBITELJA ČOKOLADE – The Association of Chocolate Lovers, located at Ulrica Marsàla Tita #85.  The chocolates are a work of art, and their cakes and pastries are sublime.  Attached to it is Antica Osteria da Ugo, a terrific casual restaurant.  Both the chocolate museum and the restaurant are also part of the Amadria Park Hotel chain.  Coupons from the hotel offered a ten percent discount.

The highlight and ‘must-do’ in Opatija is a walk along the coastal promenade named “Lungomare” which hugs the sea.  The eastern end of the walk has stunning views of the beaches, the Adriatic, the parks, and historic villas, with old-world charm.
The western section is as beautiful in a more ‘down-to-earth’ manner.  Here, one can find affordable restaurants and stores.  There are also kiosks selling clothing, reef shoes, umbrellas, beach chairs, etc., at far more reasonable prices.

The Lungomare. The seaside path that runs along the seaside.

The Lungomare continues along the seafront.

The most charming Opatija landmark is the statue in the sea called ‘Maiden with the Seagull.’  It’s just to the right of the gardens of the Amadria Park Hotel.

We spent two nights in Opatija.  Three nights is ideal if you want to enjoy the ‘beaches’.