NÎMES – FRANCE
Little advertised and seldom spoken of, we had no idea what to expect of Nîmes. We chose it as a base for our three-week stay in the south of France because of its proximity to so many of France’s most famous towns.
From our hotel suite, we had a panoramic view of the Esplanade Charles de Gaulle, the main square of Nîmes.
At its center stands a marble fountain constructed in the mid-19th century with a sculpture of a woman depicted as an ancient goddess adorned with elements that resemble the ancient Roman temple in Nîmes.
Through the right of my window, I had a birds-eye view of the graceful Church of Sainte Perpetué and Sainte Felicité, known for its diversity of architectural styles from Gothic, to Renaissance, and Byzantine.
Through the left side of my window, I had a partial view of the well-preserved Roman amphitheater built at the end of the 1st century AD. It was designed to accommodate upward of twenty-four thousand spectators who filled the theater to watch gladiators and condemned criminals engaged in battle with wild animals. It is still in use today for concerts and sporting events, and is said to be the best-preserved amphitheater in the world.
Across the street from the amphitheater is the Musée de la Romanité, wrapped in a façade that resembles undulating sheaths of delicate fabric. This interactive museum displays Roman antiquities from mosaics to ceramics, friezes, and sculptures. It leads one on a journey of discovery through the years of the Gallic Period, the Roman Period, and the Middle Ages.
The museum overlooks a small French/Roman garden, which is worth a visit.
This unique mingling of Nîme’s well-preserved French and Roman antiquities has earned it the nickname of “French-Rome.”
On the opposite side of the amphitheater, on the edge of the Esplanade, is The Monument to the Dead, where French flags fly and sculptures of residents of Nîmes adorn the archway. The monument commemorates the citizens of Nîmes who died during both World Wars, as well as the Indochina and Algerian wars.
The memorial has a subterranean mosaic floor encircled by walls bearing the names of those who never returned.
Narrow pedestrian shopping lanes paved with smooth oatmeal-colored tiles twist and turn
from the Esplanade into the Old Quarter. Like most old European towns, it entices one to wander through the maze and lose oneself while exploring the boutiques, popping into a restaurant for lunch, discovering picturesque ‘places’ (squares), each one with a distinctive charm.
Place du Marché hosts an authentic, typically French, patisserie and ‘tea/coffee shop,’ which brought back memories of bygone days in Paris. Cozy and sophisticated with upholstered French antique style chairs, edge-to-edge carpeting, and sparkling chandeliers.
Their quiches and hot croissants on a cold, windy autumn morning were sublime.
Maison Carrée – a Roman, Corinthian style temple built in the early first century, was dedicated to Gaius and Lucius Caesar, the grandsons and adopted heirs of Emperor Augustus. This regal Roman treasure dominates Place de la Maison Carrée, which is occupied by elegant French residences, cafes, and restaurants. A juxtaposition of historical and everyday 21st-century living.
Across the street from Maison Carrée, you’ll find the modern Museum of Contemporary Art.
The structure is encased in glass, which reflects a brilliant contrast of the past, mirrored in the present.
Place d’Assas.
The Nemausa and Nemausus fountain was designed and installed in the late 1980s. It’s an idyllic spot to rest and linger awhile. A reflection of golden autumn leaves, and the two statues shimmer in the pond. It’s the most beguiling little gem in Nîmes.
Jardins de la Fontaine is said to be the first public garden in all of Europe. It was designed in the 18th century by the military engineer Jacques-Philippe Mareschal at the request of King Louis XV. Mareschal designed the gardens to blend in seamlessly with the remains of the existing Roman baths and ruins, which had been abandoned for thirteen centuries. In the early 19th century, Augustin Cavalier, the mayor of Nîmes, continued the development of the park that covers fifteen hectares/thirty-seven acres.
Approach the gardens from the stunning Quai de la Fontaine. On the way, you’ll most likely come across gentlemen playing boules/pétanque, a popular French game where players aim to throw hollow metal balls (boules) as close as possible to a small wooden ball called the ‘cochonnet.’
Plan on spending several hours at the Jardins de la Fontaine, which is composed of three levels. The ground level has statues, ornate stonework, ponds where white swans glide silently back and forth, fountains, and majestic staircases, all surrounded by gardens.
Not to be missed is the Temple of Diana, which will be on your left when you are standing facing the hilltop.
The temple dates back to the 1st century and the reign of the Roman Emperor Augustus. There is something magical about this ancient Roman temple, especially on an afternoon when shards of light cast shadows on the stones, the sky is swimming in blue, and the ancient archway is set against a backdrop of glistening, golden autumn leaves.
The second level of the garden has paths lined with shrubs and shady trees that meander up to the uppermost level where the Roman Temple – Tour Magne, watches over the town of Nîmes and offers panoramic views.
Along the way are benches facing a crescent-shaped expanse of lawn. This park is beloved by the citizens of Nîmes, who occupy the benches in the late afternoon, often only one to a bench. Some read, some stare at the mesmerizing view, while others meditate or take a nap. It’s a place of peace, relaxation, and beauty.
Pont du Gard Aqueduct is a thirty-minute, twenty-three kilometers/fourteen-mile drive from the center of Nîmes. This Roman Aqueduct, which spans the Gard River, was built in the 1st century AD to carry water fifty kilometers/twenty-one miles to the colony of Nîmes. In step with all the Roman antiquity of Nîmes, it is considered to be one of the best-preserved aqueducts, which is remarkable as it functioned not only to carry water but also as a bridge. Due to its double purpose, it was maintained during the Roman era rule and underwent several bouts of renovations and restorations beginning in the 18th century.
Pont du Gard is an old Roman aqueduct, southern France near Avignon. Reflection in the river Gard
*Note: We visited Nîmes in mid-November. Though it requires warm winter clothing, the sun shines, the autumn leaves have turned to gold, there are very few tourists, and it’s a gem of a town. You can make it your base for visiting Montpellier, Toulouse, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, and Avignon.
*Disclosure: The photo of the aqueduct was purchased from Deposit Photos.