Begur and the Costa Brava
Having never heard of Begur, I had no idea that we were in for a treat when we climbed the winding medieval stone lane that leads from the parking lot to Plaϛa Sant Pere de Begur.
The church towers over the village square where a fruit stall displays plump, ripe, fresh farm produce, and a coffee shop and restaurants spill onto the plaϛa.
In the early morning, elderly locals trickle into the plaϛa to claim a seat on one of the two benches that stand on either side of the entrance to the church. As the day wears on, the “Es Pedris Llarg” (the long stone bench) that “runs around the side façade of the church” fills with villagers as it has for generations. They meet to chat with friends, catch up on village news, and observe the passing parade of tourists.
The original Sant Pere de Begur Church harks back to the late 13th century. The church that stands today was rebuilt between the 16th and 17th centuries. While the exterior is quite austere, the interior boasts an elegant, Gothic-style altar piece.
As we ventured into the web of lanes that lead from the square into the neighborhoods, we discovered boutiques housed in ancient stone, cave-like structures and charming, family-run small hotels.
New homes wrap around original stone turrets on Castle Street. “Castle Street is a medieval street that led to the castle. According to tradition, the inhabitants of the street had to offer a glass of water to the feudal lords of the castle when they passed by.”
It seems that it was quite common for Begur merchants to emigrate to Cuba in the mid-19th century, make their fortunes in tobacco, cork, and flour, and return to Begur, where they built exquisite, one-of-a-kind mansions – many of them combining the old with the new.
Begur was an unexpected find. It’s choc full of charm, pristine, and populated with people of every age, many of whom close their city homes in the heat of summer and flock to Begur minutes away from some of the most exquisite beaches on the Costa Brava.
The Costa Brava Beaches. We visited three beaches, each one more stunning and enticing than the next. The road to the beaches zigzags like a snake around hairpin bends through a forest of trees, then suddenly drops down to the idyllic beaches.
Sa Riera – Unbeatable!
Note: The beach restaurant closes at the end of September.
Aiguablava Beach – where we had a terrific lunch at “TOC AL MAR” that rests on the beach.
Sa Tuna – the photos speak for themselves. Spend the day or a week and enjoy meals overlooking the beach at Hostel Sa Tuna.
Note: It’s closed on Tuesdays.
Cap Sa Sol restaurant is high above the beach and rock formations. The restaurant is a five-minute drive from Sa Tuna. It closes for the season the second week of September.
Sant Marti d’Empuries
In 575BC, the Greeks settled in Sant Marti d’Empuries. In 218 BC, the Romans arrived and established a town adjacent to the Greek settlement. Over the years, the Roman settlement grew, while the Greek town eventually declined, and the two merged into one city.
The ruins of both cities are preserved at the Empuries archaeological site, which is a unique melding of Greek and Roman architecture.
Today, Sant Marti d’Empuries is a tiny, ancient, well-preserved village on the Costa Brava that commands panoramic views of pristine beaches and calm, clear waters.
The little town square, surrounded by ancient stone alleys, is dominated by a late Gothic-style church and a charming outdoor restaurant.
It’s a 12 minute drive from Sant Marti d’Empuries to L’Escala, a town famous for its beaches, ancient ruins, and anchovies. Hundreds of fishing and pleasure boats bob in the marina, surrounded by a wharf lined with restaurants.
